Rolex may be synonymous with luxury and prestige today, but not so long ago in the 20th century, its watches were purchased as professional tools. Built for sportsmen, explorers, and adventurers, Rolex created purpose-driven models that became icons in their own right.
 
The Age of Tool Watches
Each Rolex model served a specific function: the Submariner for divers, the GMT-Master for pilots, the Daytona for racers, and the Explorer for rugged adventurers. While the original Explorer was a straightforward time-only tool watch designed for active lifestyles, Rolex took things a step further in 1971 with the launch of the Explorer II reference 1655. This watch was aimed at a very niche audience—scientists, cavers, and volcanologists—those who needed a reliable tool in extreme and often lightless environments.
 
The Birth of the Explorer II Ref. 1655
The Explorer II introduced a striking feature: a bright orange 24-hour hand, affectionately nicknamed “Freccione” by Italian collectors. Powered by the same caliber 1575 used in the GMT-Master, it initially appeared to be just another GMT model. But its fixed bezel set it apart, as the orange hand functioned purely as a 24-hour indicator. For those spending extended periods underground or in caves, where day and night blur together, this feature was far from ornamental—it was essential.
Produced between 1971 and 1984, the 1655’s very specific utility and unconventional styling made it an outlier in Rolex’s lineup. Its alternating lume markers and bold orange hand gave it a character unlike anything else the brand was producing at the time, and as a result, it was never a commercial success. Ironically, its initial unpopularity has made it one of the most coveted vintage Rolex references today, valued for its rarity and distinctive design.
 
The Rarity of the MK II Bezel
The example here features the proper thick-font MK II bezel, matching with the case from 1975. This Explorer II has the familiar lollipop-style hand, also matching with the watches production year.
The dial has been serviced from Rolex before 1997 and thus includes the rare MKVI service dial, which still features the typical T Swiss < 25 T lettering and the tritium lume gives it a beautifully aged look.
 
The 1655 is a Rolex That Surprises
The Explorer II Ref. 1655 is a watch that turns heads—not because it looks like a typical Rolex, but precisely because it doesn’t. With its bold orange Freccione hand, deep patina, and unmistakable styling, it is worlds apart from the Submariner or GMT-Master most associate with the brand. On the wrist, it is a conversation piece, a piece of Rolex history, and above all, a tool watch that embodies the adventurous spirit of its time.