A Historic Lineage
The Calatrava has long been regarded as the purest expression of Patek Philippe’s artistry, and it all began in 1932 with the reference 96. Launched under the newly appointed stewardship of Charles and Henri Stern, the reference 96 was designed to herald a new era for the manufacture—one that would come to define the very idea of the modern dress watch.
 
Created by David Penney and influenced by the Bauhaus school, the Calatrava embraced clarity, balance, and restraint, breaking away from the extravagance of the Art Deco period. Its name, and the iconic Calatrava Cross, were drawn from the medieval Order of Calatrava, embodying strength, heritage, and timeless values.
 
Today, the original reference 96 is celebrated as the archetype of the time-only dress watch. Since its debut, the Calatrava has evolved through countless variations, each carrying forward the spirit of the original. Among them is the reference 5026G, produced from 1997 to 2002, a direct descendant of the beloved 5000G, and a model that seamlessly unites classicism with a contemporary edge.
 
The Design
This reference 5026G is housed in a luminous white gold case, its precious metal accentuating the depth of the glossy black dial. The applied Breguet numerals are not only a nod to Patek Philippe’s rich history but also a detail sought after by the most discerning collectors. Paired with refined Breguet-style hands, they offer both elegance and legibility, evoking the mid-century masterpieces for which the brand is revered.
 
Breaking with tradition in a subtle yet striking way, the small seconds sub-dial is positioned between 4 and 5 o’clock—an offbeat detail that lends the watch a touch of individuality, while its vintage-inspired typography pays homage to Patek Philippe’s heritage. The dotted minute track, elongated lugs, and uniform dial design contribute to a sense of proportion and presence far beyond its 34mm diameter, making it wear with authority on the wrist. The crown, engraved with the Calatrava Cross, completes this sophisticated aesthetic.
 
The Movement
Powering the 5026G is the legendary caliber 240, a self-winding movement first unveiled in 1977 and regarded as one of Patek Philippe’s technical triumphs. Renowned for its slim profile, the caliber 240 was chosen for some of the manufacture’s most iconic complications, including the perpetual calendar reference 3940.
 
Visible through the sapphire caseback, the movement is a showcase of Geneva watchmaking at its finest: elegant Geneva stripes, expertly beveled edges, and a solid 22k gold micro-rotor engraved with the Patek Philippe seal. With 27 jewels and a 48-hour power reserve, the caliber 240 is certified with the prestigious Geneva Seal—a guarantee of excellence that only the finest movements may bear.