When it arrived in the late 1980s, the ref. 16220 carved out its own quiet corner in the Datejust universe. While the fluted and smooth bezels tend to dominate the spotlight, the engine-turned bezel of the 16220 offered something subtly different—an understated texture that gave the watch a distinctive presence on the wrist, yet never strayed from that effortless Rolex cool. Paired with the classic 36mm Oyster case and a wide array of dial configurations, like this rare Tapestry Dial, it became a versatile companion for daily wear, refined without feeling formal.
 
As one of the early five-digit Datejust references, the 16220 represented a meaningful step forward for the collection. It was among the first to adopt a sapphire crystal and brought with it the modernized functionality collectors now take for granted. Most notably, the patented instantaneous “jumping date” mechanism, which snaps crisply to the next day at midnight—a welcome evolution from the slow-rolling date change of earlier generations.
 
Within the five-digit era, Rolex distinguished the references beginning with 162XX by fitting them with the updated caliber 3135, a movement that would go on to define modern Rolex reliability. Its predecessor, the 3035 found in the 160XX family, remains beloved, but the 3135 marks a clear refinement—a technical nuance worth noting for those who obsess over the details (as we tend to do).
 
Coming in a full set, this tapestry dial Datejust from the last series of the 16220 is a beautiful yet unusual example of the Datejust we all know and love.