Two-tone isn’t for everyone, but in the case of this ref. 1675/3 GMT, the blend of steel and gold just works.
Rolex introduced the GMT-Master in 1955 as a tool watch designed for commercial pilots. The original ref. 6542 built upon Rolex’s growing reputation in the sports watch category, following the release of the Submariner and Turn-O-Graph in 1953. Developed in collaboration with Pan American World Airways, the GMT-Master was created to aid pilots by displaying two time zones simultaneously—symbolizing humankind’s mastery of flight. By 1958, Rolex introduced the first all-yellow gold GMT-Master (ref. 6542), marking the beginning of precious metals in the model’s lineage. The ref. 1675 replaced the 6542 in 1959, and by 1970, Rolex had added the first two-tone GMT to the catalog.
The ref. 1675/3, the inaugural two-tone GMT, features several distinguishing characteristics in both design and functionality. One of its most beloved features among collectors is the iconic "nipple dial"—a term referring to the smaller, circular, applied hour markers with luminous centers.
This particular example is a testament to how well two-tone can be executed when done right. The black and gold color scheme is striking in person and looks stunning on the wrist. The patina developing on the lume, both on the hands and applied markers, adds to its vintage charm, with the lume taking on a warm golden hue that beautifully complements the gold surrounds. Paired with the less common Oyster bracelet, this watch stands as an excellent representation of the 1675/3’s legacy.
To complete the package, this GMT comes as a full set—including the original presentation box, hang tags, manuals, and punched papers (Rotterdam / Netherlands). It doesn’t get much more complete than this.
This GMT is a true standout, featuring a striking black and gold motif, a matching two-tone Oyster bracelet, and a vintage "nipple dial" for a classic touch.
Rolex GMT Master | Nipple Dial, Full-Set | ref. 1675/3 from 1982
BRAND: Rolex
MODEL: GMT Master
REFERENCE: 1675/3
YEAR: 1982
CASE NO: 723****
MOVEMENT: Rolex, self-winding, caliber 3075
CASE DIMENSIONS: 39mm diameter; 12.7mm thickness
CASE MATERIAL: Two Tone - Stainless Steel / Gold
GLASS: Plexiglass
BRACELET/STRAP: Original Two-Tone Rolex Jubilee Bracelet stamped 62523H with 450 End links
CLASP: Rolex stamped 62523H clasp
BOX & PAPERS: Yes Box and Papers
TAX: Differential taxation according to §24 UStG
Movement: The movement has been fully serviced by one of Vienna’s most renowned and known watchmakers in Q1 2023. The confirmation will be given to the buyer of course. Movement is running perfectly and the caseback has been sealed accordingly in the course of the 2023 service.
Dial: The dial has developed a light patina, though it can be subtle. Its glossy finish remains impressively clean. The lume on the hour markers has aged to a warm, creamy gold tone, beautifully complementing the dial. The dial printing is sharp and well-preserved.
Glass: The plexiglass is in very good condition with no scratches or cracks.
Hands: The handset, correct in length and style for this period, exhibits some patina. The lume on the hands closely matches that of the dial.
Case: This GMT is in overall very good and attractive condition. The case shows some scratches and appears to have been polished in the past, but it remains well-presented. The numbers between the lugs are clearly visible, and the back of the lugs shows minor marks from bracelet removal and placement. The caseback is polished.
Crown: Very good condition.
Bezel: The bezel has faded to a light blue/greyish tone over the years.
Bracelet: The bracelet, though showing some scratches and minor stretch between the links, remains in good shape. The clasp is stamped "1 72," indicating production in the first quarter of 1972—consistent with the case production date.
